Exploring Jodhpur, the Sun City: A Field Trip

Hello,

Sharing glimpses from my field visit to Jodhpur, Rajasthan, as part of our Sociology Honours programme, where we explored the city’s cultural and social fabric alongside our professors and classmates. This journal brings together snapshots of our journey, interweaving reflections with visual narratives.

Day 1: 14^th December’15

After reaching Jodhpur on the morning of 14th December, we checked into Mangal Haveli Guest House, which offered a beautiful view of Mehrangarh Fort from its terrace and was in close proximity to the Clock Tower and the fort.

View from Guest house

This day was entirely dedicated to exploring Mehrangarh Fort and its vast museum complex. The fort, built by Rao Jodha, is flanked by seven gates or ‘pols.’ The grandeur and architecture of the place left many of us spellbound.

Luckily, we had a well-informed and patient guide who provided us with a historical overview of the fort, intriguing observations, and insights into the socio-cultural realities of that time. While entering through one of the massive gates, we were taken aback to see handprints of multiple women on a brick wall. Our collective interpretation was that the practice of Sati was prevalent at the time, and widows left their handprints on the wall just before immolating themselves, largely due to societal pressure.

Also, we observed with interest the sociological significance of the intricate Jharokha-style windows in the complex. They reflected the patriarchal structure of society, where women were not allowed to actively participate in certain ceremonies but remained merely mute spectators, sitting by the Jharokha. The view from these windows was unidirectional, women could look outside while remaining shielded from the public gaze. Inside the museum, we were visually drawn to a collection of palanquins, howdahs, royal cradles, miniatures, musical instruments, costumes, furniture, and Marwar paintings.

Day 2: 15^th December’15

We left our guest house in the morning and packed ourselves into jeeps near the Clock Tower for a village safari to Bishnoi Village. During our visit, we interacted with rural men and women of a local family and were impressed by their deep connection with nature, particularly their lifestyle modelled on sustainable living.

The Bishnois are known as protectors of biodiversity and have even sacrificed their lives to protect trees by hugging them. There was a clear division of labor between the roles performed by the husband and wife. While the man worked outside to earn a living (our host was a taxi driver), the woman managed the domestic sphere, taking care of the household, meals, and children.

Guda Bishnoi Lake offered a serene and breathtaking view of wildlife, khejri trees, and the shimmering water. We spotted exotic blackbucks with the naked eye and enjoyed an even more stunning view through binoculars, an experience we truly cherish. As we crossed the area where Salman Khan shot a blackbuck in 1998, now somewhat of a tourist spot, we couldn’t help but reflect on its historical significance.

We also interacted with a potter, a weaver at Salawas, and artisans involved in block printing fabrics. The potter was a cheerful, easygoing man who interestingly seemed deeply content with his craft and life, with no desire to migrate to a city for higher wages.

Meeting the weaver opened our eyes to the sheer effort behind his work.. Completing a single durry, a rug distinct from a carpet, could take around six months if woven by one person alone. Our respect for the elderly craftsman grew immensely when some of us attempted weaving ourselves and quickly realized how labor intensive and physically demanding the process was.

The block printing work, done using intricately carved handmade blocks on bed sheets and table covers, was truly exquisite. The artisan shared that while women played a crucial role in the long and complex process of block printing, their contributions remained within the household while only men stepped out to sell the finished goods

In the evening, some of us visited Jaswant Thada, a cenotaph built by Maharaja Sardar Singh in memory of his father, Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. This beautiful site, featuring Mughal-style gardens, now serves as a burial ground for the rulers of Marwar.

Jaswant Thada

Day 3: 16^th December’15

In the morning, we headed to Umaid Bhawan Palace, named after Maharaja Umaid Singh, the grandfather of Gaj Singh, the erstwhile Maharaja of Jodhpur. The palace is divided into three sections: the royal family's residence, a luxury Taj Palace Hotel, and a museum dedicated to the royal heritage.

View of the "Blue City" from right outside the Palace 

With extra time on our hands, we also visited Mandore, located 9 km from Jodhpur. Once the capital of the erstwhile princely state of Marwar (Jodhpur State), Mandore is home to the Ravan Temple, believed to be the native place of Ravan's wife, Mandodari.

At Mandore Garden, we came across several fun rides and couldn’t resist reliving our childhood days. Last but not least, we visited the historic Ghanta Ghar (Clock Tower) during our stay in Jodhpur, which is a prominent landmark in old Jodhpur. 

Day 4: 17^th December’15

As the Mandor Express pulled into Old Delhi Railway Station in the morning, our journey ended, but the social tapestry of Jodhpur remained with us. This visit offered us a deep dive into the social fabric, revealing the enduring influence of tradition and the evolving dynamics of community ties in the face of modernity.

Beyond its heritage, we witnessed how communities navigate change while holding onto tradition, how caste and kinship shape daily life, and how livelihoods endure through generations. And most significantly, we carried with us not just stories, but vivid memories shaped by these lived experiences.

Photographs by - Pritish Raj, Durga P. Reddy, Shambhavi Pant